Love At First Sight | Lake Como

I’ve often felt that I was born on the wrong continent. In a former life, the idyllic and majestic Lake Como is where I must have called home.

With its array of opulent villas, rose-laden belvederes, hanging wisteria and bougainvillea, olive trees and surrounding Alpine peaks; Lake Como’s beauty is timeless. Despite the fact that the summer months here see Como swarming with glamorous crowds, the allure of this spectacular retreat endures.

The famous lake lies north of Milan, where Italy meets Switzerland, and is Europe’s deepest lake (almost 1,350 feet). It is Italy’s third largest lake, stretching 50km from one end to the other and is shaped like a wishbone, with the town of Como at the bottom of the left fork. Como’s mountain-backed shores are lined with ancient paths that wind through picturesque villages where for the price of an Aperol you can while away a sunny afternoon watching beautiful people in expensive clothes. Even better, many of the historic palaces and neoclassical villas along the lakeside open their doors and gardens to the public, giving you the chance to experience history vicariously like an erstwhile duke or duchess.

GETTING TO BELLAGIO

We flew from London to Milan one weekend in early October to celebrate Tom’s Birthday; spent a stormy night in Milan and then hopped on a train the next morning straight for Como. We avoided the hassle of hiring and driving a car, as Como is easily accessible by train. No mention the roads in the region can be crazy (not unlike the rest of Italy), and are particularly chaotic on weekends. I would only suggest driving if you’re game to traverse the lake, and if you have time on your hands, as this will allow you to explore smaller villages along the way.

The town of Como is often used as a stepping stone to luxury hotspots like Bellagio and Tremezzo. As we arrived with plenty of time before our check-in at the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni, we opted to take the 10am slow boat to Bellagio. Be warned that this route makes roughly 10-16 stops, and the journey takes at least two hours complete. There are faster alternatives, but a picture is worth a thousand words. As the ferry departed and gained speed, the lake opened up before us and completely took our breath away. This was the most pleasant way to begin our time in Lake Como, which was made even better after we caught a glimpse of Mr Clooney’s Villa.

BELLAGIO: THE PEARL OF LAKE COMO

There are many wannabe Bellagio’s in the world, but there is only one true Bellagio. Once you’re here, it’s impossible not to be besotted by the waterfront, the maze of steep stone staircases and the panoramic Alp views. As we neared the dock of Bellagio, we spotted our Hotel, the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni; in fact, you can’t miss it - it takes up half the town. As charismatic as Bellagio is, it is a rather small town that doesn’t require more than half a day’s visit. However, its location makes it the perfect base, as it is conveniently situated on the promontory where the lake separates into two branches, making it ideal for visiting nearby attractions.

SETTING SAIL

As the lake is the centre of life in Como, one of the best ways to explore Lake Como is on the water. There are a variety of different options for boat trips on the lake, depending on your budget. There are plenty of day tours that take you to the central part of the lake, as well as Menaggio, Lenno and Varenna. Or if you’d prefer to channel Sophia Loren, you can hire a classic wooden Riva speedboat for a spin around the lake – headscarf, over sized sunglasses and prosecco a must. We took our chances and hired our own motorboat, which you can hire by the hour with or without boat driving experience. This was a highlight of our trip, as it meant we were able to cruise to whichever part of the lake we desired, and could get up close to the villas.

With the sun shining and the cooler fall breeze fluttering the flag behind us, it was a relaxing way to soak up the scenery, with colourful villages spilling down from the surrounding hills to the water’s edge.

IT TAKES A VILLA

Villa hopping is the thing to do in Lake Como. Many of the waterfront villas remain the private domain of privileged residents, but there are a few open to the public. One of the most magnificent is the stately Villa Carlotta, a former marquis’s mansion dating from the late 17th century that today functions as a museum. It is a 20-minute ferry ride west of Bellagio. If you’re looking to splurge and take your glamourpussing to a new level then Villa D’Este would be the place I would choose to stay. The luxury hotel is one of Italy’s finest 5 star hotels in Lake Como and is home to several bars and restaurants with spectacular views over the lake. The highlight of this Villa are the glorious gardens surrounding the property. They represent one of the most harmonious and evocative examples of Baroque scenography of Lombardy and Italy.

Of all the Villa’s to see, Villa Balbianello in the town of Lenno is the standout. You might recognise the property from blockbuster movies such as “Star Wars Episode II: Attack of the Clones”, and “Casino Royale”, but besides being a filming location, it was also the home of an Italian explorer. Count Guido Monzino, the last person to live in this Villa, was the first Italian to lead an expedition to Mount Everest. You’ll find secret passageways, hidden compartments, and trapdoors in this maze of a home. Tours are offered in English, and cost about 20 EUR to access the interior and the gardens. It has also become a hugely popular wedding venue; with a waiting list of up to two years and a minimum down payment of 15,000 EUR for the venue alone.

MY TIPS

Remember that Lake Como is extremely seasonal: if you go to Bellagio, for example, from November through February, you’ll find nothing open—not a bar, restaurant or shop. On the other hand, during the summer weekends, tourists fight for elbow room with hordes of day-trippers up from Milan. I would recommend coming midweek if you a degree of peace.
Trade your high-heeled sandals for something more comfortable when visiting Bellagio.
If you’re staying in Bellagio, mane sure you visit Pescallo. This old fishermen’s village is tucked away behind a steep hill and is hidden from the crowds. It’s a short 10-15 minute walk from Bellagio, making it the perfect place to escape the town’s hustle and bustle.