Las Alamandas
Built amid a landscape of dense tropical forest, a rugged coastline and fragrant fruit orchards, Las Alamandas is nestled in one of the most beautiful and biodiverse pockets of western Mexico.
Owner Isabel Goldsmith-Patiño, daughter of the late British financier Sir James Goldsmith, envisioned a small-scale boutique retreat on her inherited wild land, which allowed most of the estate to remain unspoiled; naming it after the beautiful buttercup yellow flowers found amongst the property. Las Alamandas, a boutique development consisting of 8 villas with only 18 exquisitely appointed suites, sits on 2,000-acres of abundant wildlife-rich land, with opulent colourful architecture and pristine beaches. It is a thoroughly Mexican hideaway with a rustic, romantic elegance that is truly hard to top. The resort's exclusive reputation has also made it a magnet for high profiled guests.
Las Alamandas only takes up a very small portion of the land, with the resort being located on one crescent of beach surrounded by kilometres of jungle that is now a nature reserve. The first building on the land was a three bedroom villa where Goldsmith-Patiño herself took up residence. Since then, the traditional Mexican-style property – now bearing the name Casa Isabel – is available to rent, while Isabel’s new casa, also in the same architectural style, has been built on one of the headlands overlooking the Pacific Ocean.
LOCATION & HOW TO GET HERE
The Costalegre is a remote, natural paradise which connects Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo. This 212 km stretch along the Mexican Pacific offers pristine nature, mountainous landscapes, mango, papaya and coconut plantations, hidden beaches, bays, rivers and lagoons filled with exotic water birds, tiny fishing villages and the ultra-exclusive secluded resort, Las Alamandas.
It does take some time to reach this paradise, but my goodness it is worth it. The resort is a two-hour drive from the Puerto Vallarta Airport and an hour and 40 minutes from Manzanillo Airport. Private ground transportation to and from either airport can be arranged directly through the resort at an extra cost. The drive itself is wonderfully scenic. You’ll pass through the port city of Puerto Vallarta and then wind through Jalisco's Sierra Madre foothills and some small villages. The rural province of Jalisco is tequila country where fields of cactus cover the arid landscape.
The drive is instantly forgotten as you pass through Las Alamandas' private gate into a tropical slice of heaven. This area enjoys an ideal "microclimate" where it is warm and sunny most of the year. June to October is considered the "green" season, but it usually rains overnight, leaving you with warm sunny days.
Guests with larger wallets can even make use of the property’s private landing strip. Las Alamandas has a private airstrip which can accommodate small planes from 5 to 14 passengers. Flight time from the Puerto Vallarta Airport is 25 to 30 minutes.
THE LAS ALAMANDAS EXPERIENCE
Entering the Las Alamandas, the driveway is lined with canary yellow alamandas flowers that give way to verdant green lawns with palm trees and thatched palapas against the rolling waves of the Pacific. We have officially entered Isabel Goldsmith-Patiño's dream world on the Mexican Riviera that she has made a reality for a privileged few to experience. It feels surreal to be here.
A stone pathway with sculpted fountains leads us to up to six vibrant pink and tangerine coloured hacienda-style villas, with pink domed roofs, all arranged around a plaza with colourful bougainvillaea. We’re greeted by smiling staff members, all dressed in immaculate white uniforms with cool towels and fresh drinks for us. A member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World group, Las Alamandas is a seaside oasis that prides itself on its discreet yet personalised service, and feels like a nature reserve without the crowds. Room keys are not required here. Staff members will bring you a cocktail no matter where you are on the grounds. They'll arrange special romantic dinners on a distant promontory, and point out the calmest waters along the breathtaking beachfront. We have never experienced such stellar service at a resort, with close to a 5-to-1 staff-to-guest ratio.
This is not a place for workaholics to do business: the only Wi-Fi signal is in the lounge and you’ll be hard pressed to find a mobile phone signal, so you’re completely forced to switch off and unwind; what more could you possibly want? At Las Alamandas, you’ll spend time doing things you normally wouldn’t do, like relaxing poolside under the thatched palapa, playing tennis, kayaking, surfing, boogie boarding, taking walks along the beach, riding horses, or taking a tour of the extensive property by ATV. You can visit the organic garden that grows much of what you eat while staying here or have a picnic by the river running through the property. The vast property gives a feeling of a private playground and the freedom to explore is yours.
Nighttime at Las Alamandas is a magical experience - the dark sky lights up with millions of stars and the moonlight shines out over the sea. You can even request to have a beach bonfire or have a romantic drink at the Estrella Azul Rooftop Lounge with its sexy, curvy bar that glows in a kaleidoscope of colours.
Las Alamandas prides itself on its privacy, but the paparazzi are obviously in the know, considering the celebrities that have visited over the years: Nicholas Cage, Sting, Jennifer Aniston, John Travolta, Brad Pitt, and DeNiro, who once rented the whole place out for a holiday break. Plus a few billionaires from the other side of the globe that have arrived by yacht.
I felt that time slowed down during our stay at Las Alamandas. For most of the day, the only sounds heard were the singing birds in the soaring palm trees and the crash of the waves on the beach, complemented by the pleasing visuals of well-manicured, verdant grounds, vibrant coloured buildings and blue skies. Very few resorts can match Las Alamandas' spacious landscapes, its true sense of place, its artistic vision, and its personal service.
LUXURY SUITES & VILLAS
After undergoing major renovations in 2012, more suites were newly constructed and existing ones were upgraded with new furniture, linens, double shoes and walk-in closets. Las Alamandas’ small room count and extensive grounds draw in guests searching for privacy and peace, not to mention it’s especially appropriate for the health-conscious travellers of today. Every room features its own entrance, so you’ll find that you rarely bump into any other guests during your stay. Las Alamandas’ sense of privacy is heightened by the lack of Wi-Fi access in guestrooms; this really is a resort you come to to disconnect from the stress and pressures of everyday life and immerse in total relaxation. This is laid back luxury at its absolute finest.
All suites and villas make beautiful use of local handicrafts and ornate hand-painted accents and have all been designed by the owner herself, offering guests luxury, comfort and exclusivity. Each suite has been impeccably decorated with a unique colour scheme and style, including hand-embroidered cushions, artisan paintings and sculptures from different regions of Mexico, together with custom designed ceramics, and shaded terraces with daybeds and sofas in canary yellow and bright shades of pink. All accommodations offer privacy and intimacy for its guests, and all are equipped with small or larger terraces; feature outdoor Jacuzzis or private plunge pools, hammocks and areas for al fresco dining with exquisite views.
For larger groups of families and friends, the three spectacular beachfront villas are located merely steps away from the pristine and secluded sandy white beach of Las Alamandas. Guests can choose from the 2 Bedroom Villa Casa del Domo, the 3 Bedroom Villa Casa Isabel or the 4 Bedroom Villa.
HOLY GUACAMOLE
Guests can eat under the shaded terrace of the Oasis Restaurant or on the oceanfront under the large thatched Palapa near the pool. The atmosphere of Las Alamandas is laid back and low-key with a genuinely friendly service and an "anything, anytime, anywhere" attitude. There are many secluded locations around the property to enjoy a meal, such as a private picnic on an isolated beach, on the edge of a dramatic clifftop while you admire a breathtaking sunset, on the terrace of your Villa or pretty much anywhere your heart desires. The staff at Las Alamandas will make it happen.
All produce is fresh and organic, grown right here on the property - everything from fruits, vegetables, herbs, free-range chicken and fresh fish and seafood are brought in from local fishermen everyday. The menus consist of many Mexican delicacies all served on vibrant Mexican pottery, including the most sensational guacamole you’ll ever taste. We travelled Mexico for five weeks and ate guacamole everyday, (sometimes multiple times a day) and Las Alamandas took the prize.
The chefs are food magicians; they present an ever-changing menu daily, plus they will cater to any special requests you may have. Being a small resort gives Las Alamandas flexibility that a large resort can’t have. They can be much more personalised than a larger resort because we’re guests in Goldsmith-Patiño’s home. Besides the guacamole, our favourite dishes were always the seafood options, along with the poblano crepes and ceviches. I can’t forget the crème brulée and homemade ice cream for dessert!
WHAT TO KNOW
SWIMMING: Be very cautious when swimming in the sea right in front of Las Alamandas, as the currents and tides can be dangerously strong.
WHEN TO VISIT: October to May is dry and warm, with temperatures averaging 21-27 degrees. The best month to visit is November, when the surrounding countryside is verdant after the summer rains. The rainy season lasts from May to October, with rain falling most afternoons in the wettest months of June to September, when temperatures average 27-33 degrees. We visited in July - it was wonderfully warm during the day, and almost all our evenings consisted of rain and thunderstorms.
MOSQUITOES: Be aware and come prepared. Las Alamandas will provide you with mosquito repellant in your Villa, and will have it ready for you when you sit for dinner.
CHILDREN Lots of activities to entertain the little ones — but also plenty of space so that guests don’t feel overwhelmed by children running around.
BAR, EVENTS & NIGHTLIFE: Las Alamandas is generally quiet in the evenings, but not for lack of things to do. There's a sexy rooftop terrace to sip cocktails on as the sun goes down, a colourful bar for evening aperitivos or the option of the beach palapa open all day with snacks. There’s also a bonfire night on the beach once a week
WHAT TO BRING: Sporty gear for yoga classes and hikes. If you're planning on going horse riding, you'll need a pair of trousers and some closed shoes.
Visit https://alamandas.com/ to check their availability or visit their Instagram page @lasalamandas.
I was hosted as a guest of Las Alamandas, however, all the opinions expressed in this article are, as always, my own.