Feel The Rhythm | Jamaica — lostwithlina.com

Jamaica is one of the liveliest, soulful and legendary of the Caribbean islands, and it is powerfully beautiful.

It begins with the bluest of crystalline waters flowing over vibrant coral reefs, lapping onto white sandy shorelines, then rises past red soil plains, lush banana groves and verdant mountain slopes. Despite its size, the island has a distinct attitude and personality - with its laid-back living, warm hospitality, swaying palm trees, world renowned cuisine, rum and reggae; this nation’s captivating culture and natural landscapes have had such a massive influence on the world and evoke such passion and affection even in those who have never visited. It’s no wonder this country is such an unforgettable holiday destination.

Wherever and whenever you go, remember, relax...you’re on island time now.

GETTING HERE

Jamaica’s main airport for tourist’s is Sangster Airport in Montego Bay, followed by Norman Manley Airport which is situated just outside the island's capital, Kingston. From London, Virgin Atlantic, Air Jamaica and British Airways have direct flights to both Montego Bay and Kingston from Heathrow and London Gatwick, with a flight time of approximately 9.5 hours.

The popularity of all-inclusive package holidays means that the majority of visitors from the US and Canada fly to Jamaica with a charter airline. There are also plenty of daily direct flights from many parts of the US, though Canada is not as well served. Unfortunately, there are no direct flights from Australia or New Zealand to Jamaica; the best option would be to fly to the US and pick up an onward connection. The least expensive and most straightforward route would be via Los Angeles.

We visited the island in December 2020 for my belated 30th Birthday holiday (immediately after the UK was released from lockdown 2.0). We flew direct to Montego Bay from London Heathrow with Virgin Atlantic. Tom managed to secure premium seats and it was the most comfortable and enjoyable flight I’ve been on. If you have the means to upgrade to premium, it is definitely worth it.

TIP: Before your arrival to Montego Bay, be sure to book the Sangster Airport VIP Lounge, Concierge Service and Fast-Track Entry with Club MoBay. It will be the best money you will ever spend. The immigration (and now COVID screening) entry lines can be brutal and will add a few extra hours onto your time at the airport. Having a friendly face greet you as you disembark the plane, and escort you through the airport, bypassing all other passengers through customs and immigration to expedite your holiday time is the ultimate luxury and convenience after a long flight. The MoBay staff make your entry process into Jamaica smooth and the service will save you more than two hours of waiting in queues at the hot and crowded customs and immigration areas, so it is well worth the small fee.

NAVIGATING THE ISLAND

Jamaica is the third largest of the Caribbean islands, and the largest English-speaking island in the Caribbean Sea. It lies 140km south of Cuba and 190km west of Haiti. The island itself is 235km long, 82km wide and is divided into 3 counties and 14 parishes.

Montego Bay

Most travellers touchdown in Jamaica’s tourism capital, Montego Bay, on the north coast, which is affectionately called MoBay and concentrate on exploring the “big three” resorts of Montego Bay, Negril and Ocho Rios. MoBay was once a port where ships bound for Britain were loaded with supplies of sugar. MoBay is now a bustling city lined with bars, restaurants and all-inclusive Resorts. The region is fringed by bays of powdery white beaches, shimmering waters and well-preserved plantation houses that tell the story of Jamaica’s colonial-era heritage.

Negril

An hour and a half West of Montego Bay, on Jamaica’s western tip, you’ll find the bohemian influenced Negril, with its low-rise Resorts slung across the island's finest and longest natural sandy and dramatic cliffs. Negril is younger (having been colonised by hippies in the early 70’s), more laid-back and has a long-standing reputation for hedonism and buzzing nightlife. The delightful Negril Beach is often found on prestigious lists that declare it to be one of the world’s finest beaches. The sunsets that can be seen from Negril’s beach and cliffs are legendary. It is here that you’ll find one of Jamaica’s hot spots, Rick’s Cafe. Located atop a 35-foot high cliff on the far west end, it boasts cliff jumping, as well as the best uninterrupted view to catch a sunset.

Ocho Rios

To the east of Montego Bay, the former fishing village of Ocho Rios is where you’ll discover Jamaica’s best waterfalls and some of the islands most renowned attractions. Situated in what locals call ‘the garden parish’ of St Ann, this area on the north coast is the most developed area of Jamaica outside the capital. The attraction of this area becomes clearer once you leave the main roads and travel through the diverse parishes of St Mary, St Ann and Trelawny. The scenery is extraordinary, with sweeping cane and coconut plantations, mangrove swamps, sweeping waterfalls, an abundance of farmland and kilometres of stunning beaches.

The East & South

Away from these three main resort areas, you’ll have to look a bit harder to find your entertainment – the east and south coast of Jamaica are much quieter and offer a less packaged product. If you fancy a day trip off the beaten path, the rugged peaks of the Blue Mountains and the streets of the rain-fed, sleepy Port Antonio to the east of the island provide gateways to some of the county’s greatest natural attraction, such as the cascading waterfalls at Reach, Somerset and the Blue Lagoon, and rafting on the majestic Rio Grande.

The south coast offers different pleasures, such as gentle beach action at the easy-going Treasure Beach – the perfect base for exploring local delights such as the YS waterfalls or boat safaris in search of crocodiles on the Black River.

Kingston, the Capital

The true heart of Jamaica, Kingston is the dynamic capital that pulsates with energy and Jamaican spirit. It’s not just a political and business capital; it has a major focus on art, culture and music scenes, with top-class hotels, restaurants and shopping, and legendary fried fish. Kingston is the best place to experience Jamaica’s electric nightlife; its venues and street dances are always buzzing, the music loud and dancers vying with each other for the best moves. Here you’ll find the former home and recording studio, now turned museum, of reggae king Bob Marley.

THE RESORTS

Ahead of your trip, make sure you do some research to see which attractions you’d most like to tick off your bucket list whilst you’re here. Knowing where you’d like to visit and how far those places are from the various Resorts will really assist in planning your stay. Ideally, you’ll want to choose a Resort that is conveniently located so that you can easily access the attractions, or even has the attractions included in an excursion or day trip from the Resort. For our week-long trip, Tom opted to split our time between two Resorts in two different regions; Negril and Montego Bay, which allowed us to experience so much more of the island.

Couples Resort Negril

Located on 18 acres of the purest white sand, Couples Negril is a beachfront, all-inclusive adult playground without distraction from crowds, children, or schedules. The couples only philosophy translates into pure romance from the moment you arrive. Whether you enjoy floating in the sea on an inflatable with a cocktail in hand, indulging in spa treatments with your other half, or simply lying in a hammock reading under the coconut palms, this vacation epitomises relaxation.

Being all-inclusive, the Resort offers you everything you could imagine for a blissful holiday; including 24-hour dining, your choice of 5 restaurants, each catering the most delicious cuisines (the Asian cuisine at Lychee was my favourite), an extra splash of rum at your choice of the four bars, an abundance of water sports (even scuba diving and sailing), daily recreational activities, evening entertainment, and even offshore excursions, such as a sunset catamaran cruise and trips to the famous Rick’s Cafe which is nearby. The list goes on. Couples Negril is Couples Resort’s most intimate and centralised Resort. It truly is an idyllic beachfront Caribbean haven which will exceed all your expectations.

Zoëtry Resort & Spa, Montego Bay

The beauty of splitting your holiday between two different Resorts is that you feel like you’ve had two holidays in one, and that you’re able to experience far more of this beautiful island nation. Life was sublime and relaxing at Couples Negril, yet somehow, things became even calmer and slower once we arrived at the Zoëtry Resort Montego Bay. We received a “welcome home” from the friendliest and most hospitable staff we’ve ever encountered upon our arrival, as well as a chilled glass of prosecco.

This boutique Resort is a tranquil all-inclusive oasis, and with just 49 suites, it has a much more intimate setting than the other sprawling oceanfront resorts nearby. The grounds match that ethos, and are filled with blossoming hibiscus and ixora flowers punctuated with grassy fields and swaying palm trees. The Zoëtry Resort offers the finest gourmet dining experience, and would usually feature three reservation-free restaurants. As we travelled during the COVID pandemic, there was only one restaurant open for each meal of the day, though the 24-hour room service, Jerky Joe’s beach shack and the lobby bar all remained open for guests to enjoy.

I was stung by a jellyfish whilst snorkelling during a sunset cruise at Couples Resort, a few days before checking into the Zoëtry Resort. The staff at the Zoëtry went above and beyond to ensure I had enough vinegar and pure aloe vera leaves to ease the pain and help heal my sting.

WHAT TO DO

Rasta Taxi Tours

The all-inclusive package for our stay at Couples Resort Negril included return airport transfers, so upon our arrival in Montego Bay, we were collected by a private mini van (which we had to ourselves) with our very own local guide, Mr Steven Blake, who drove us down to Negril. He was so friendly, knowledgeable and entertaining. We were so fond of him and befriended him so quickly, that he became our go-to for our day trips and all of our transport needs during our time in Jamaica. If you’re looking for a private tour guide to show you all the hidden gems of the island, I can’t recommend Steven more highly!

The absolute highlight of our holiday was the day excursion he took us on. He collected us from the Zoëtry Resort at 9am one morning, and drove us up to Ocho Rios where we explored Dunns River Falls and he also arranged a private guided tour of the Blue Lagoon for us. You can contact him via Rasta Taxi or through his Instagram @rasta_taxi.

Dunns River Falls, Ocho Rios

Known as Jamaica’s best-loved waterfall and a staple for all Jamaican tour brochures, Dunn’s River Falls is breathtaking. The wide and magnificent 600ft tiered waterfall cascades over rocks down to a tree-fringed white-sandy beach, which is where you begin your hour-long climb.

The climb itself is loud and wet, although easily navigable. The step-like rocks are regularly scraped to remove slippery algae, and you will also be led by one of the very experienced guides. It's an exhilarating experience, as you’re showered with cool, fresh water all the way up. Be sure to wear water shoes, as the rocks can be sharp and they provide you with more grip which will make the climb more enjoyable. There will also be a videographer and photographer on site to capture your climb of the falls. DO NOT buy the video or photos. Steven did warn us not to purchase the video, but I was persuaded to buy the package, and was very disappointed. In fact, I still haven’t received what I paid for despite my attempts to contact them.

The Blue Hole, Ocho Rios

Our next stop was the Blue Hole; the island’s unofficial tourist attraction located up in the hills of Ocho Rios. It is undoubtedly one of Jamaica’s hidden treasures, complimented by its serenity, and sits perfectly amongst the rainforest mountains and exotic greenery. We arrived at the falls, and discovered that we had the entire place to ourselves. It was so peaceful and surreal, and was unlike anything I’ve ever experienced before. Being alone in the falls also meant that we benefited from having a private guide, Ryan, who hiked up the river with us and showed us the safest spots to climb, jump and swim. The icy blue waters of the pools create enormous cascades of waterfalls up to 25 feet deep, making it a great excursion spot for swimmers and thrill seekers. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can try your luck swinging from the Tarzan-type rope vine into the pool, or you can explore the hidden caves beneath the waterfalls and even have a mud bath. What more could you want?

Chukka Ocean Outpost, Sandy Bay

The Ocean Outpost is Chukka Tours newly expanded seaside ranch adventure spot just outside the town of Sandy Bay, and is approximately 40 minutes from Montego Bay and an hour from Negril. What was once a thriving sugar plantation has been transformed into an ocean-loving thrill seeking playground.

Sandy Bay is known as the first ‘free village’ on the island’s western side, and was originally a township established by former slaves. It became known as a land for freed men who were no longer under the control of their plantation owners. Many of the tour guides at Chukka who helped in crafting the experiences and tours at the Outpost are actually the children of villagers who grew up on “Freedom Street” and around the Chukka property.

We were collected from our Hotel and driven down to Sandy Bay for the horse riding tour. We arrived at Chukka Outpost and were greeted by friendly smiles. Our temperatures were taken and we were asked to sanitise our hands before we checked in and headed off to meet our horses (Hero & Dan). As we meandered through 18th century ruins and an old sugar plantation, our guides shared stories and local history about the 600-acre property. We rode through lush green pastures, farmlands and up hills overlooking the sparkling Caribbean Sea. When we made it back to the beach, we got ready for the final part of the tour; swimming with the horses.

As far as water activities go, this is quite a unique one. Initially I was hesitant to do this part of the tour, as I was unsure about whether it was cruel for the horses. After doing some research and discussing it with the locals, I decided to seize the opportunity, as it was only a 5 minute experience. Many tour operators and certain Resorts on the island train horses in Jamaica to swim in the ocean. Majority of the swimming horses at Chukka Tours have been rescued from race tracks where they were already swimming as part of physical therapy. The horses are then trained in a pool and then the ocean by professional swimmers. If I’m honest, although it was short lived, I can’t say that I would do it again in that environment.

Rick’s Cafe & Cliff Jumping, Negril

We’ve all seen a sunset, but have you ever experienced a sun set at one the best locations in the world, with live melodies of Bob Marley playing in the background? Rick’s Café is renowned for having an unrivalled view of the sunset in Jamaica. Set on the western side of the island atop a 35-foot high cliff, it is also the hot-spot for cliff jumping!The water in the cove beneath the cliffs is an inviting turquoise, and many tourists enjoy the thrill of cliff diving or jumping here as part of their stay in Jamaica.

With a restaurant, bar, live music and even a lounge area with cosy cabanas, Rick’s Café is hugely popular with both the locals and tourists who want to take the plunge and cliff jump, and those who want to just sit back on the edge of a dramatic cliff side vantage and take in a magical sunset.

CARIBBEAN FLAVOURS

While most all-inclusive Resorts will cater to tourists with cheeseburgers and pizza cravings, you should absolutely try the local fare. Jamaican food is delicious and adds a whole other element of satisfaction to your holiday. Jerk chicken, curried goat, and oxtail stew are common dishes, and ramshackle jerk shacks on the side of the road often produce the most mouthwatering jerk. Don’t be apprehensive if you see jerk chicken being grilled in a metal drum at the roadside in Jamaica. Jerk chicken tastes great on its own, but we discovered that it was even better with festival (local bread) on the side.

Rice and peas (kidney beans), fried plantains, sauteed callaloo (spinach-like greens), and bammy (cassava flatbread) are typical sides found at most buffet stations and low-key eateries. Be sure to try the national dish of saltfish and ackee (a fruit) for breakfast. Wash it all down with a strong cup of Jamaican coffee or a locally brewed Red Stripe beer.

*Scotchie’s Jerk Chicken in Montego Bay*

WHEN TO GO

The best time to visit Jamaica is when the weather is at its worst and coldest in the UK, between mid-December and mid-April. In Jamaica this is also the driest part of the year. However, prices are at their highest at this time, so you may want to consider the shoulder season, up until July, when Resort prices reduce by as much as a third and the weather is not all that different. The summer months in Jamaica are hot and muggy. You should also be aware that September and October is hurricane season and November is the rainy season. We visited in early December and had 4 days of sunshine with rain at night, and 3 days of rain.

MY TIPS

CURRENCY: The currency of Jamaica is the Jamaican Dollar, the ‘jay’, which uses the same symbol as the US dollar (S). However hotel (and high-end) restaurant bills are often quoted in US dollars which are widely accepted.

TIPPING: Tipping is not as common in Jamaica as it is in say the United States. Nonetheless visitors should be prepared to tip around 10-15 percent for taxis and good service. Restaurants and hotels in tourist areas often add a gratuity onto the bill, so check carefully before leaving a tip.

GETTING AROUND: Unless staying at a resort where airport transportation is included, getting around Jamaica is expensive. Taxis cost a hefty amount, particularly for travelers needing to take the 90-minute or two-hour drive from the international airport in Montego Bay to Ocho Rios or Negril, respectively. If you’re planning on spending most of your time at the resort, stick to a taxi, or hire a driver for the odd excursion, as driving on rural, interior roads can be difficult due to windy, narrow, and pothole-filled roads. Buses present a cheap alternative, though stick to reputable companies.

TAP WATER: Unlike Mexico, tap water in Jamaica is safe to drink, unless you’re visiting a very remote area with questionable water filtration, go ahead and drink the tap water.

HURRICANES: As with other Caribbean destinations, Jamaica is susceptible to hurricanes between the months of June and November. The peak hurricane period for the Caribbean is from early August through the end of October, and Jamaica typically receives its heaviest amount of rainfall in October. However, recent hurricanes such as Irma, Maria, and Dorian, have largely avoided Jamaica, and the island has primarily been subject to storms with heavy rain and wind. Nevertheless, travellers should keep an eye on weather reports and avoid peak hurricane months if they’re worried. On the other hand, these months often see fewer tourists and thus are more affordable for flights and hotels.

DON’T FORGET: You can’t say I didn’t warn you! Make sure you pack some reliable inspect repellant for your time in Jamaica. There are so many conflicting articles out there that downplay the fact you don’t need to wear insect repellent, but I’m telling you, you do; especially if you’re usually susceptible to being bitten. Regardless of Zika, there are not only mosquitoes but sand flies. I wasn’t even able to lay on the beach beds at Couples Resort in Negril without covering myself with repellant. Along with strong insect repellant, make sure you pack plenty of sunscreen, a hat, sunglasses and water shoes; particularly if you plan on doing some of the excursions mentioned above.