Christmas Markets
Have you been dreaming of a White Christmas?
There is nothing quite as magical as the festive season in Europe; with snowy backdrops, cosy firesides, frosted ice-skating rinks, twinkling lights and markets that ooze fairy-tale charm – I mean, is there a more romantic notion?
Having grown up in the southern hemisphere, I’m an absolute sucker for the wonder of winter, despite the fact that I am yet to experience a true White Christmas. Nevertheless, for our second winter living in London, I finally got a taste of Europe’s Christmas markets. There is something to be said about the aroma of baked apples and cinnamon wafting, all the while sipping a steaming cup of mulled wine as you drift around the traditional wooden market huts pilled high with everything from edible treats to handmade ornaments.
Tom had booked and planned a European Christmas Market road trip in mid-December for my Birthday, from London to Germany, via France. It was a trip I’ll never forget, and I’d highly recommend a similar itinerary for anyone who wants to tour Europe’s best Christmas Markets. Here is a breakdown of the markets we visited, along with the details of our trip and some additional tips should you wish to plan your own Christmas Market road trip.
THE ITINERARY
Day One: We spent four days traversing from London to Germany, and back. After an early start on day one, we left south London and made it to the Eurotunnel in Folkestone in less than 2 hours. The crossing to Calais in France was a hassle-free, relaxing break from driving and took approximately 35 minutes. Before we knew it, we were in France, heading 110km south-east to our first stop, Lille.
Day Two: Another early morning, as we were in the car on route to Cologne, Germany right after breakfast. We anticipated the drive would take roughly 3 and a half hours (331km), not including snack and petrol breaks, as we headed east through Belgium. We made great timing (thanks to the Autobahn) which meant we had an entire afternoon and night to wander the various markets around the city.
Day Three: Whilst I felt bad for Tom having to spend another day driving, I have always wanted to see the medieval Burg Eltz Castle near the Mosel, Germany. Luckily for me, Tom is a good sport and didn’t hesitate driving an hour and a half to see the Castle, despite the fact that half way through the drive we discovered that the Castle had in fact closed for the winter. We returned to Cologne mid-afternoon, and ventured to the remaining markets that we’d missed the day before.
Day Four: We spent the entire day travelling back to London, this time through the Netherlands and Belgium before crossing into France, and hopping back on the Eurotunnel to England. The drive took all of 7 hours (580km).
LILLE, FRANCE
Known as the capital of the Hauts-de-France region, Lille (Rijsel in Flemish), is northern France’s largest city and is a self confident, yet underrated metropolis on the rise. Thanks to the Eurostar and the TGV, Lille is a convenient and environmentally sustainable weekend break from London, Paris, and Brussels.
The Lille Christmas markets are quite small compared to some better known ones in Europe, but what it lacks in size it makes up for in festive vibrancy and is the perfect city to begin your Christmas Market trip. From the last week in November to the end of December, the month long market is the largest in Northern France and has been a tradition for centuries. The festival is held in the Place Rihour in the town’s centre where you’ll find an enormous Christmas tree and Ferris wheel surrounded by more than 80 chalets teeming with gift ideas, nativity figurines, Christmas decorations and carols and traditional festive food. You’ll find plenty of regional specialities such as macarons, biscuits, Maroilles cheese and local sweets like babeluttes (soft caramels).
Wandering through the winding cobblestone streets of its tastefully resorted Old Quarter is truly enchanting; with its colourful Flemish facades of the 17th century merchants’ houses, and beautifully decorated boutique stores twinkling amongst the light displays. The best way to capture the views of the city is from the top of the Ferris wheel while you listen to Christmas carols in the Grand Place.
COLOGNE, GERMANY
Nestled in the western fringe of Germany lies of one of the countries largest and most diverse cities, though – as it was often visited by the RAF during WWII – perhaps not its most beautiful. Nonetheless, Cologne, or Köln, has a highly developed sense of its own distinctiveness with an abundant amount of attractions to discover, led by its famous Cathedral, whose filigree twin spires dominate the skyline. The city is a living textbook of history and architecture: as you roam the streets you will stumble across an ancient Roman wall, medieval churches galore, nondescript post-war buildings, avant-garde structures and a new postmodern quarter right on the Rhine.
Famed for its dazzling array of Christmas markets, Cologne transforms into a Christmassy fairy-tale for around 3 weeks (25 November to 23 December), arguably boasting some of the best Christmas Markets in Europe. Here you’ll find a whopping seven markets scattered around the city, although we only managed to visit four. Cologne’s markets are best visited over two days, mainly because you will struggle to fit in seeing seven markets in one day, though it is still possible. The markets are also best experienced when the sun goes down, all the lights are turned on, and the Glühwein (mulled wine) is steaming.
THE MARKETS
Weihnachtsmarkt am Kölner Dom - Cathedral Christmas Market
Framed within a canopy of starlight’s, the Christmas Market at Cologne Cathedral is perhaps the most popular, as it bedazzles visitors with the historic backdrop of the twin spires of the Cathedral, and entertains visitors with live carols. This market was most spectacular in the evening, when the Cathedral is lit up against the sky and the red and white stalls are draped in lights huddled around the 25-meter high Christmas tree; the largest in the Rhineland. We did find that this was one of the busiest markets, as the historic children’s carousel is particularly popular, so we didn’t stick around for long.
Heinzelmännchen – Cologne Old Town Market
Next up, we walked along Hohe Straße just off the Cathedral Square, which is the main shopping street of Cologne, took a left on Obenmarspforten and find ourselves at the elves village. Every year, hundreds of festive house “elves” transform the Old Town into the perfect traditional fairy tale Christmas Market, complete with its very own ice rink. This market is by far the largest, most traditional feeling and uniquely themed; with chalet-styled huts decked out with greenery, mistletoe, a toy and sweet alley, fairy lights and hundreds of German gnomes.
With stall vendor’s showcasing wood carving, forging horseshoes, and brewing freshly spiced cider, to artisans crafting hand-made trinkets, this market was were we spent most of our time Christmas gift shopping. This market was also where we satisfied our puckishness with German dishes. It is often said that food tastes better outdoors and certainly never more so than on a crisp, chilly winters evening. We indulged in multiple Bratwursts’, many a Nutella and lemon and sugar crêpe, and we tried the traditional Reibekuchen, which is a fried Potato like pancake with an apple sauce. We also drank our first Feuerzangenbowle, which is a traditional German drink where a rum-soaked sugarloaf is set on fire and drips into the Glühwein. Delicious!
Markt der Engel (Weihnachten Auf Dem Neumarkt) – Angels Christmas Market
The Market of Angels is magical, glamorous, quite modern and different from the rest around the city. It is certainly the prettiest Market to visit at night when the whole area is brightly gleaming with lit stars hanging in the trees. The market is centrally located in the heart of Cologne amongst the city’s most popular neighbourhoods and shopping streets, making it all the more busy. Here, you’ll find tastefully designed stalls featuring individually decorated and adorned gables. The market has rather broad aisles, which allows visitors to stroll about with ease (in contrast to the others). Lots of hand craft goods to be found here and those with a sweet tooth can find the best candy and fried snacks on offer. By this point you might have had enough of walking, but the next market can be found down by the Rhine edge.
Kölner Hafen-Weihnachtsmarkt – Cologne Harbour Christmas Market
As if Cologne’s famous Chocolate Museum weren’t tempting enough at this time of year, it’s also getting in on the festive action by hosting maritime Christmas Market right out in front of it, overlooking the Rhine. Here you’ll be served mulled wine from the hull of a boat, and be treated to fine German delicacies, amongst a truly picturesque Harbour backdrop. Be aware, it might be a modern addition to the city’s Christmas scene; it is no less popular than its traditional neighbours.
MY TIPS
PLANNING YOUR ROUTE: I’d recommend taking 4 days to do a similar trip, however, if you’re wanting to visit a few more Christmas markets along the way and would prefer to enjoy the towns during wintertime, rather than city hoping each day, I’d recommended taking a week or longer (as most towns a generally between half an hour to 3 hours apart).
ACCOMMODATION: We spent one night in Lille at the Best Western Premier Why Hotel, and parked the car in a nearby underground carpark which cost approximately €25 for a day. For our two nights in Cologne, we stayed at the Cologne Marriott Hotel, which, very conveniently, has their own carpark underneath the Hotel (but will still set you back €28 for a day). Both Hotels were fantastic and situated within a few minutes walk from the Christmas Markets in both cities.
OTHER CHRISTMAS MARKETS: If time permits, I would highly recommend adding the Christmas markets in France such as Colmar and Strasbourg, or the German markets in Aachen, Rothenburg and Frankfurt.
THE EUROTUNNEL: If you’re planning to do a road trip from London, make sure you book the Eurotunnel online and as early as possible to ensure you secure the best prices. The prices change daily as you get closer to your departure date. You should aim to arrive at the Eurotunnel at least 30 mins prior to your departure time. Make sure you take your licence and passports for all passengers. Don’t forget, you will lose an hour going over the France, and will gain one on your return.
GLASSES & MUGS: Remember that all glasses and mugs for Glühwein have a return deposit on them, if you like what you have, you’re welcome to keep it, they do make good keepsakes, but remember even the beer glasses have a deposit, so be sure to return them or you be paying more than what you bargained for.